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Why Handmade Fashion Is Trending Now
IF THE word ‘folk’ conjures images of crafty homespun wares—say, the patchwork peasant dress your kooky aunt made you last Christmas—this season’s opulent folk-inspired designs might surprise you. Take Celine’s crimson velvet vest with ornate gilded embroidery that took 180 hours to complete. That’s well beyond the scope of the kookiest aunt. The trend has spilled into interiors, too: In her new book “Décors Barbares” (Vendome), Nathalie Farman-Farma, who designs textiles for interiors, documents her decadently patterned work and influences, from embroidered Georgian riding jackets to 19th-century printed Russian headscarves. Carrie Hertz, a curator at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, N.M., says this flurry of handcrafted, colorful “folk” embodies the term as the 18th and 19th century Romanticists defined it—a rebellion against the industrial revolution, a yearning to return to a slower life.
In this frantic digital age, we can relate; it’s not surprising that handmade-looking pieces have a new allure. Designer JJ Martin researched traditional Eastern European garb for her La DoubleJ label’s new Transylvania range of flouncy dresses and separates, out this month, translating the embroidery found on 17th-century gilets into a print. And Horror Vacui’s Anna Heinrichs includes traditional Bavarian details in her designs, such as pleating and hand-cut scalloped collars. “I think it’s great to find a way to keep the craftsmanship alive,” she said.
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